Sunday, July 13, 2008

Climbing at Upper East Fork

Yoshi on Revenge of the Werepig, 5.11c.

Today I went to the Upper East Fork area with Caroline and Yoshi. We warmed up on a 5.10b with a tricky top. I did not manage to do the crux and was irritated by the lichen I got in my eyes as I was struggling. The area is new and some of the routes still need cleaning.  Next up was the Revenge of the Werepig, 5.11c, which is very sustained and has a mantle crux close to the top. Yoshi cave up at the crux after several efforts. Caroline lead it to the top and I tried it again on top rope. It is a really cool route but I need a lot more stamina before I can get it a proper try to do it clean at least on top rope. Later I got my revenge on the nice 5.10c on the rightmost wall. During a previous try I ripped off a good sized hold and hit the wall with my back. I managed to lead it clean and the crux did not feel that hard. Last time I did not manage the crux a single time but today was apparently the day.

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